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23rd September 2013, 13:28 | #11 |
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Sorry to hear your news, give it a good whack from me too
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23rd September 2013, 19:16 | #12 |
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You should take my advice and take it apart carefully.
You may be able to salvage a hard drive just as I did with mine. I couldn't just junk mine. I had almost 1TB worth of porn on mine and I didn't want to lose it and I had no backup for it back then. I do have back up now. Last 2 months I went out and bought several 3TB external hard drives. So each one of my original external hard drives has it's own exact mirror back up on a 3TB external hard drive. Then I've put both of the original and the backup away in storage. I wrapped each one carefully in bubble wrap and then double bagged each one in its own ziploc bag with the zip closure. I have started storing my latest downloads on 2 new 3 TB external hard drives with equal 3 TB external hard drives back ups. |
23rd September 2013, 20:15 | #13 | |
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Quote:
It usually consists of a lil' USB/SATA-HDD controller board an the drive itself stuffed into some kind of steel/plastic framework. Take away the outside cover + board and you'll see it's just a normal internal HDD with SATA or IDE plug. Might be possible that only the controller board took a hit. Probability isn't very high, but high enough to give it a try. Usually it's impossible for the arm to drive off the plate, even in those circumstances, because HDD manufactures build in a physical stoppage for the arm since late 90s. Clicking at HHD start-up and 0bytes shown usually strongly suggests that the HDD-spinmotor can' accelerate enough becuase it took a electrical hit and can't get the plates accelerated enough. For security reasons the arm won't leave it's docking area until the plates reached a certain spinrate. The arm is instantely pulled back when trying to access the plates - that what we hear as clicking noise. No chance for repair if that's the case, as you can't open the casing and change the spin drive Buy a WD nex'time |
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23rd September 2013, 20:44 | #14 |
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I had to remove the serial number stickers and other little stickers on mine to get to the screws.
Don't try to force anything apart. The screws are there. They are covered up under the stickers and the plastic/foam padding. The reason my external HD no longer showed up on the USB was the little microchip board that the USB connection was connected to didn't work anymore. |
23rd September 2013, 21:42 | #15 |
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I don't see the need to do this: the drive's content has already been backed up so there is nothing to recover, and given that hard drives do suffer from mechanical failures, fixing this one is only bound to be a temporary measure.
Best thing is to get rid of it and replace it with a new unit.
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24th September 2013, 00:03 | #16 |
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Check out this thread here: hxxp://msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/ and see if the info there helps. It deals mainly with a firmware bug where some HDs were recognized in bios as 0mb. Maybe you might be experiencing the same problems. You can also check this one: hxxp://html5.litten.com/how-to-fix-external-disk-drive-suddenly-became-raw/
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24th September 2013, 13:00 | #17 | |
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Quote:
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2nd October 2013, 04:21 | #18 |
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If you're in the US, and if you really want to try to salvage your drive, you could try these guys:
Code:
http://donordrives.com/ I have had bad luck with modern high-capacity drives: I've had a 2TB one and a 3TB one fail on me the past couple of years; lost my favorite parts of my collection both times. Now I spread it out over a bunch of smaller (<= 500gb) external drives. I've had some of these smaller ones going on eight or more years without problems. I don't trust the modern mega-capacity drives any more. In addition to all the parts that Armanoid pointed out, external drives have two other weak links: the SATA PCB board, and the SATA-USB PCB board. Either of those could get damaged in a power surge. |
3rd October 2013, 16:48 | #19 |
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If it's an external drive, I would for sure take it apart. A common failure for external drives is the enclosure itself and it's associated circuitry and power supply. Remove the drive and test it. If it fails testing, then throw it away.
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4th October 2013, 12:33 | #20 |
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Seagate enclosures were the worst, they'd make the drive overheat.
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